Your landscape can be easy on your eyes and easy on the planet.

Douglas Owens-Pike will share his expertise on how native plants can supply energy and water to the environment, provide year-round natural beauty, and help preserve Minnesota’s biodiversity. Come learn how to grow a garden that requires less energy, less water, benefits the environment, and is beautiful to look at during two classes on Sustainable Landscape Design.

These classes still have openings, and we would love to have you join us! Come with your questions about how to make your own landscape shine with less maintenance, money, and time!

Minnetonka Community Education: Thursday, February 16, 2012 7 to 9 pm

Register at Minnetonka Community Education or call 952-401-6800

OR

Hopkins Community Education: Thursday, March 8, 2012 6:30 to 8 pm

Register at Hopkins Community Education or call 952-988-4070

Who says you can’t have a beautiful landscape and eat it, too?

Perhaps you think that ornamental landscape plants and a kitchen garden belong in separate areas of your yard. Think again! Come learn how to incorporate aesthetically-pleasing and edible plants into your landscape. Douglas Owens-Pike will share his ideas about this exciting concept in garden design with a class offered through Minnetonka Community Education. The “Edible Landscaping Ideas” class will be offered on Thursday, March 22 from 7 to 9 pm.

To register online, go to:

Minnetonka Community Education

or, call 952-401-6800.

Edible landscape image borrowed from Emily Tepe, U of Minnesota

Want to learn more about attracting pollinators?

On Thursday, March 1, 2012, EnergyScapes staff ecologist

Button Blazing Star with Monarch Butterfly

Laura Domyancich will present “Bees and Butterflies: Are They Disappearing?” for the Minnetonka Community Education program. Participants will learn what threatens our native pollinator populations and what we, as home gardeners, can do to provide habitat and attract these beautiful and incredible creatures to our landscapes.

Register for this class through the Minnetonka Community Education website:

Minnetonka Community Education

or by calling: 952-401-6800.

Reality Check – Garden Design Round Table

Please check out the latest ruminations on “Reality Check” by nine member of Garden Design Round Table at http://gdrt.wordpress.com/

Or simply follow the links below to each of the blogs. Enjoy!

David Cristiani : The Desert Edge : Albuquerque, NM

Jocelyn Chilvers : The Art Garden : Denver, CO

Susan Morrison : Blue Planet Garden Blog : Easy Bay, CA

Andrew Keys : Garden Smackdown : Boston, MA

Susan Cohan : Miss Rumphius’ Rules : Chatham, NJ

Rebecca Sweet : Gossip In The Garden : Los Altos, CA

Christina Salwitz : Personal Garden Coach : Renton, WA

Shirley Bovshow : Eden Makers : Los Angeles, CA

Genevieve Schmidt : North Coast Gardening : Arcata, CA

 

Gardening with Deer

For Garden Design Round Table, December 13, 2011

People have a complicated relationship with deer. We all enjoy their beauty and majesty. We love getting close to see them in their natural habitat. Some enjoy pursuing them for hunting trophies, food and hides. Meanwhile, we have nearly eliminated their natural predators who kept their population controlled as we added more edge habitat where they most prefer living. This edge provides deep woods for shelter that is close to plenty of light to grow more foliage, their food supply.

As a landscape designer, I have two decades of experience with dancing on this line of creating wonderful habitat for deer, while attempting to restrain them from pruning away the flowers and foliage we would love to see in our yards. We have used repellents, exclosure fencing, and tested various plants recommended as vegetation that deer will not eat. A memorable visit was to a new client in one of our Twin Cities suburbs. Her evergreens were so stripped of needles (even the branches) that it appeared a bomb had gone off in her garden. When I suggested she had a deer problem, she sheepishly admitted she was feeding them. So, we created a “secret” garden that deer were unable to enter. We used a fence 8′ high and looped off the north end of her home 50′ out, connecting the east and west sides. We never had a problem except when someone left a gate open. The look of that fence system was softened with climbing native clematis, virgin’s bower, (Clematis virginiana,) combined with a gate hidden inside an arbor.

One suburb here reports that deer prefer one set of plants in the southwest corner, but ignore those and instead devour a completely different list of plants just a mile away in the northeast corner. We would love to hear from each of you readers about plants that you find deer prefer or avoid. The more information we collect, I presume, the more overlap we would find between these two lists.

Repellents have proven extremely useful, but you must be diligent about adding more as the season progresses and as plants grow new foliage. We have found it crucial to treat the plants before we take them out of their nursery trays. These fresh plants are the most delectable to grazing damage. We enjoy observing the deer close to our living space, so spraying desired plants can be essential, as well as seeking those species that are less preferred as deer food.

However, when planting evergreens, we usually like to see the needles and not just bare trunks as high as the deer can reach. We often plant evergreens for winter privacy, or to block our chilling winter winds coming off the plains to our northwest. In these cases, we opt for fencing the deer away. This can be as simple as an invisible plastic mesh that wraps each tree or shrub and allows deer to serve as our pruning, shaping gardener.

In situations where we have more space, we have also created exclosures that keep deer out. These fencing systems exclude deer from crops, nursery stock, and fruit orchards, as well as typical landscape plants and vegetables grown close to homes. While more expensive than applying repellents, less labor is required during the season when you want more time to garden and enjoy what is blooming, rather than using your time spraying. There is the added advantage of no chemicals applied to food crops.

The absolute best deer fence system includes the following elements: easily operated gates to allow people and vehicles in and out, (but not carelessly left open,) adequate height and width that deer will not jump over, and some steel reinforcement at the ground to keep rabbits from cutting their way through lighter weight plastic mesh. We have been working on this design, and here is our latest example:

Gate and Deer Fence

 

 

A work in progress

 

 

 

 

Base is black coated chicken wire buried 6″ deep running 18″ out from vertical portion. This wire continues 3-4′ vertically. A new post is welded to the vertical post to angle out 4-5′, ending about 8′ off the ground. The higher angled portion of the fence is covered with the lightweight black plastic mesh that is nearly invisible. The final step is to add paint that makes the posts less obvious and allow some vines to grow on the fence or plant a shrubs that block the homeowners view of the system.

Close-up of welded pieces

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Please visit these other blogs about gardening with deer:

Lesley Hegarty & Robert Webber : Hegarty Webber Partnership : Bristol, UK

Genevieve Schmidt : North Coast Gardening : Arcata, CA

Pam Penick : Digging : Austin, TX

Christina Salwitz : Personal Garden Coach : Renton, WA

Susan Morrison : Blue Planet Garden Blog : East Bay, CA

Debbie Roberts : A Garden of Possibilities : Stamford, CT

Rebecca Sweet: Designing with Deer

Tara Dilliard : Vanishing Threshold: Garden, Life, Home : Atlanta, GA

 

 

 

 

 

Monarch Butterflies

Many people automatically think mammals when  we begin to discuss wildlife habitat.  But one of the many creatures the benefit from our landscapes are butterflies.

Monarch on a Rudbeckia

Tamara, on our staff is a member of Monarch Watch, and has registered her yard as a way-station for them. Monarch Watch is a non profit that tracks the health of the Monarch population and follows them along their long migration.

She has shared their blog with us so we can follow their difficult journey south for the winter.  They have had a difficult year and still have many challenges yet to come. Check out their blog at monarchwatch.org

If you are interested in making your yard butterfly friendly please let us know, and have a great time following the butterflies.


Energyscapes helps Volunteers Restore Shoreline.

The Crystal Fund for Community Progress (CFCP) teamed up with staff from EnergyScapes to design a shoreline restoration plan for Memory Lane Pond in Crystal. With help from the neighbors, 4H group, Girl Scouts of America and others, hundreds of native plants and shrubs were installed along a 100ft section of shoreline. Thanks to everyone for their hard work and dedication to the environment!

 

Garden Designer’s Roundtable: Lawn Alternatives

Turf has a calming, even essential quality.  Most landscapes require some.  For the past

couple decades, we have reduced turf to areas used for entertaining or installed alternatives that require less care than the standard monoculture of Kentucky bluegrass (actually from England).  Costs associated with standard lawns include: weekly mowing and watering, fertilization, herbicides to control weeds, insecticides fungicides and various other control techniques where moles or other animals are uprooting the manicured look.  Natural lawns and be a mix of native diversity, monoculture of sedge or other low growing native grass species, or–our favorite–”No-Mow,” a blend developed by Prairie Nursery in central Wisconsin.  This mix includes several species of fine fescue; tough plants for well drained loam in the sun.  Once established, this blend requires no irrigation, fertilizer or mowing.  It can be cut to yield a more manicured look, but should be cut high.

This site, featured on the MNLA Garden Tour in 2010, shows No-Mow's ability to perform well in challenging sites, such as along roadways.

Here in the upper Midwest, we are blessed with a tremendous diversity of over 300 sedge species.  Their habitats range from the soggy edge of marshes, to raingardens (being mostly dry but occasionally flooded) to dry sand.  Pennsylvania sedge is perfect for dry, sandy soil in full sun with no irrigation.  It is difficult to establish from seed, but will fill in from plugs transplanted at 12-18″ apart.

The most difficult habitat for a dense turf appearance is deep shade with heavy clay soil.  There are a couple of sedges we are testing that show promise for lawn alternatives in even these sites.  The principle is that if the habitat exists, some plants have evolved to successfully colonize that setting.  The longer term questions is whether that species will hold on to that site or will the site ecologically succeed into some new mix of plants.  It is easy to see this progression where plowed fields are left fallow.  A series of plant species move into the initially bare site.  These can include trees like box elder and white pine, or annuals like rag-weed and mustards.  Out of this list most are gone within just a few years.  White pine are the exception, persisting for hundreds of years once their bark is thick enough to withstand ground fires.

One challenge with No-Mow turf is that it does not stand up well to heavy foot traffic. In high traffic areas we use natural flagstone, such as Chilton Dolomite in this example, to create a step-stone path through the turf. The fescue spreads vigorously between the stones.

 

In a garden setting, we can control this ecological succession by picking which species are allowed to become established, set seed or spread through rhizomes (in the case of sedges) or above ground stolons (in the case of strawberry).  Each step of the way does require energy input.  Our goal is to find a plant that will persist, once established, with the least amount of care.  Native grasses are a potential solution, however, being bunch grasses, they grow with space between them and wait to come out of the ground until ground temperatures indicate spring fires have passed.

Pussytoes is an example of a spreading ground-cover that can substitute for turf in a difficult setting. Here it has performed wonderfully in very well drained gravel next to a flagstone path.

Fire is a great way to singe off undesirable trees, but having to wait until late May for controlled burns is a significant drawback.  Non-native, high maintenance turf will green up weeks earlier than the native grasses.

Sedges seem to have the greatest promise for meeting every goal.  Stay tuned to see what mix of species we find to be best for your habitat!

Please visit these other contributors to the Garden Designer’s Roundtable for more perspectives on Lawn Alternatives:

Susan Harris : Garden Rant : Takoma Park, MD

Susan Harris : Gardener Susan’s Blog : Takoma Park, MD

Billy Goodnick : Cool Green Gardens : Santa Barbara, CA

Evelyn Hadden : Lawn Reform.Org : Saint Paul, MN

Saxon Holt : Gardening Gone Wild : Novato, CA

Ginny Stibolt : Florida Native Plant Society : Green Cove Springs, FL

Susan Morrison : Blue Planet Garden Blog : East Bay, CA

Shirley Bovshow : Eden Makers : Los Angeles, CA

Scott Hokunson : Blue Heron Landscapes : Granby, CT

Rochelle Greayer : Studio G : Boston, MA

Rebecca Sweet : Gossip In The Garden : Los Altos, CA

Pam Penick : Digging : Austin, TX

Lesley Hegarty & Robert Webber : Hegarty Webber Partnership : Bristol, UK

Laura Liven Good Schaub : Interleafings : San Jose, CA

Jocelyn Chilvers : The Art Garden : Denver, CO

Ivette Soler : The Germinatrix : Los Angeles, CA

Genevieve Schmidt : North Coast Gardening : Arcata, CA

Debbie Roberts : A Garden of Possibilities : Stamford, CT

 

Garden Designers Round Table: Water

Water is one of the most curious commodities when it comes to landscape design. Here in the upper Midwest, we are blessed with native plants that have evolved with a climate that flips between too much or too little water for agricultural crops or common turf grass. This flip flop even happens within a single growing season. Continue reading